Curries: All curries are gluten free and $24 for 700g
Butter Chicken
Javanese Chicken Curry (Dairy Free)
South Indian Lamb Curry (Dairy Free)
Chettinad Fish Curry (Dairy Free)
Spinach Paneer
Heirloom Tomato Curry (Vegan)
South Indian Pumpkin (Vegan)
Optional extras:
Handmade Lime Pickle (190 ml jar) $10
Mauritian Chilli Pickle $9
Lime Sorbet 750 ml container (using SuSuncoast Limes$15
Parathas $3 each
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During one conversation when we were talking about times of crisis, my father told me about a dish his mother used to make during tough times and how good it was. They make a type of curry in Mauritius with butter beans and vegetables called âCari Gros Pois.â It is often served with a flatbread known as Dal Puri and is one of my favourite things to eat.
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My father remembered his mother making large amounts of the curry (they had a big family as well as people often dropping in) and adding goatsâ trotters to it, creating something that he remembered as delicious. It is important to remember that in those days they would use every bit of the animal. He remembered how she would singe the trotters over hot charcoal to remove any remaining bits of hair on them. It got me thinking that the smokiness from the charcoal would add to the flavour.
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I decided to give it a try. I asked my butcher what would be a good substitute for goat feet and she had some marrow bones that she suggested that I try. I wasnât sure when to add the bones to the curry to get the maximum flavour out of it so I decided to make a stock and then use that as the base for my curry.
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We had no charcoal in the house but when looking around a Greek wholesale shop, I found some charcoal that was labelled as for use for hookah or shisha (water pipe) smoking. The packet was small and suited my need for 1 piece much better than buying a large bag.
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I made a stock by placing the bones in a pressure cooker and cooking it for about an hour. It turned out to be a wonderfully gelatinous stock. Once the stock cooled and I removed the fat from the top of it, I followed my auntâs recipe using the stock instead of water.
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After cooking the dish, I decided to add some smokiness by using a technique I learned in India. A piece of folded foil is placed on top of the curry, then the charcoal is heated over a gas flame until very hot. The next step is to carefully place the charcoal on top of the foil and drizzle it with a little melted ghee and once it starts smoking, quickly put the lid on so that the smoke gets infused into the food.
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My efforts worked a treat! The curry was rich and flavourful with that extra smoky bit, the taste and texture took me back to Mauritius.
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Here is the basic recipe for you. Let me know if you have any questions and please feel free to share.
 About 3 tablespoons vegetable oil (I usually use rice bran oil)
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 golden shallot, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1 teaspoon garlic paste
2 green chillies, sliced
1 large tomato, chopped
 2 sprigs curry leaves
1 golf ball size piece of tamarind pulp
2 carrots, peeled and cut into bite sized pieces
2 eggplants, cut into finger sized pieces (I usually use the long, thin Asian ones)
2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3 cm pieces
100g Lima Beans or Great Northern Beans if Lima Beans are not available
2 tablespoons Mauritian Curry Powder (If a Mauritian Curry Powder is not available, a Malaysian one of a Madras Style one will work.
1 tablespoon garam masala (I use my own, please ask for recipe if you want it)
I litre lamb broth, beef broth or water
1 cup water for tamarind
Salt to taste
Coriander or mint leaves for garnish
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Soak beans in water overnight and then pressure cook or boil in water until tender. Drain.
Place tamarind pulp in 1 cup warm water and massage to extract the flavour. Drain and keep âwater.â
Heat a small amount of oil in a frying pan and sear eggplant until pieces are lightly browned.
Heat oil in a heavy-based pot, add mustard seeds and allow to pop. Stir and add cumin seeds, then sliced shallot. Stir until shallot becomes translucent, then add ginger, garlic and green chilli. Stir until raw garlic smell has disappeared.
Add tomatoes and salt and cook, stirring often until oil begins to separate from the remainder of the mixture or until a paste has formed.
Add curry powder, stir well and add tamarind water. Stir and allow to cook for about 2 minutes.
Add carrots, potatoes, stock and beans. Bring to a simmer and allow to cook at a low heat until vegetables are nearly cooked through. Add eggplant pieces and garam masala and cook for about two minutes. Check for salt and garnish.
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If you would like to add an old style, smoky flavour to it, please follow the following instructions.
Place a folded piece of foil on top of the bean curry. Place a piece of charcoal on a gas flame until very hot, then, using tongs, carefully place the charcoal on top of the foil. Drizzle about a teaspoon of melted ghee directly onto the charcoal. It will immediately start smoking. Cover pot quickly and allow smoke to infuse for about five minutes. Using tongs, remove charcoal and foil from pot and serve.
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]]>The topic has recently come up about food that used to be made in the past at home. I remember that my aunt often used to make a vegan spicy broth, known as Mauritius as Rasson (a derivative of the word âRasamâ used in India). It was served in a cup and either drunk from the cup or poured over rice.
As a child, I used to ungratefully complain about âhaving this stuff AGAIN!â I would then be told to drink it as it was âgood for you.â I would grumble but do as I was told. The funny thing is that I now really enjoy it and was really happy to see a glass of rasam served at a restaurant as something to have while browsing the menu.
The health benefits of spices is something that has interested me for some time and when I was in India in December/January, I learned a lot more about spices, their health benefits (from Ayurveda and beyond) as well as new recipes.
One recipe that I learned was for a Chicken Rasam and the idea brought me back to my auntâs kitchen in Mauritius during the early 1980s. It is a chicken broth flavoured with a large variety of health giving spices. This recipe, like many in my own family has been passed down through the generations and they shared with me,
Generally, a bit of chicken is pressure cooked with spices and water but I decided to put my own twist on it. I was able to get some chicken frames from a friend who has a butcher shop and I made a chicken broth, loading it with chicken and vegetables and simmered it for 24 hours to extract the maximum benefit and then chilled it to make it easy to remove the excess fat. I then used that to make the rasam. We all know the benefits of chicken broth when a person is unwell so Iâve added that to the benefits from spices. The photo is for a beef broth that I was making but it still gives you an idea of what goes into the broths that I make.Â
I felt very spoilt when I made the broth with some of the fresh spices that I got in India, especially the pepper. I also used Alleppey turmeric as it has a higher curcumin content than the regular turmeric. Here are some of the other spices used and the health benefits:
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Pepper is high in anti-oxidants, has anti-inflammatory properties and contains minerals such as potassium, calcium, magnesium and phosphorus. It is also used as a tonic in Ayurveda to improve digestion and to treat coughs and colds.Â
Cumin improves digestion, is a source of iron, helps lower cholesterol and very importantly at this time, helps the body handle stress.
Coriander seed offers a lot of help to the gastrointestinal system, helps to reduce diarrhoea and nausea.Â
Curry leaves are rich in anti-oxidants, help to reduce heart disease and also have anti-inflammatory properties.
Garlic has been used for thousands of years for its healing properties. It has been said to help treat bronchitis, tuberculosis, liver issues, fevers and other conditions. Â Garlic is also known to be a powerful antibiotic.Â
I will provide the recipe below but please remember that I have put a twist on the original recipe by making it with chicken bone broth.
Raniâs Chicken Rasam
Spice blend:
3 tablespoons coriander seeds
4 dried red chillies
1 1/2 tablespoons black peppercorns (adjust to taste if too much)
1 1/2 tablespoon toor dal (available from Indian shops)Â
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
5 golden shallots, peeledÂ
10 cloves garlic, peeledÂ
To prepare the spice blend, heat a heavy based pot over low heat. Toast the coriander seeds, red chillies, pepper, toor dal and cumin seeds.Â
Allow to cool to room temperature, then grind in a small blender. Once mixture has been ground to a fine powder, add shallots and garlic. Grind to a paste.Â
Soup Recipe:
A splash vegetable oil (or chicken fat if you have it)
1 teaspoon cumin seed
2 golden shallots, peeled and sliced
1 large tomato, cut into small pieces
1 teaspoon turmeric powder (use less if using Alleppey turmeric)
2 sprigs curry leaves
2 fresh green chillies
1 1/2 litres chicken bone broth
Salt to taste
Juice of 1/2 limes or to taste
1 chicken thigh, cut into small pieces (if desired, the dish is traditionally served without chicken in it.Â
Add oil or chicken fat to a heavy based pan. Â When hot, add cumin seeds and sliced shallots. Stir well and continue to cook until shallot turns translucent. Add tomato, salt turmeric, curry leaves and chillies. Stir and allow to cook for about 5 minutes.Â
Add chicken broth and chicken meat (if using), bring to a simmer and allow to cook for about 20 minutes to extract the most flavour and benefits from the spices.
Add spice mixture, stir well and allow to cook for about 10 minutes. Add lime juice and serve.
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]]>Read the recipe or watch my video to learn more.
]]>If you would like to watch me make it, the video by my friend Alison Laverty is below, otherwise keep reading for the recipe.Â
Here is the recipe that I use:
1/2 kg pumpkin cubes (about 1.5 cm in size)
A splash vegetable oil (I like to use rice bran oil)
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds (available from Indian grocers)
1 teaspoon urid dal (a lentil also available from Indian grocers)
Red chilli powder to taste (if you like the colour of chilli powder but donât want it to be too hot, Kashmiri Chilli Powder is a good option)
1/4 teaspoon asafoetida powder (if gluten free, avoid the one from Indian grocers as it is usually mixed with wheat flour. Herbieâs spices has one that uses rice flour)
1 sprig curry leaves
Salt to taste
Heat oil in a heavy based pot until it shimmers. Drop in a pinch of mustard seeds, if they sizzle and pop, it is ready. When oil is ready, add mustard seeds and allow to pop. Add urid dal, asafoetida and curry leaves and stir until urid dal is a golden brown colour. Add pumpkin cubes, salt and chilli powder if using. Stir to combine well, cover and cook until pumpkin is tender, stirring occasionally to prevent burning.
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Enjoy!Â
]]>Black pepper, the fruit of a flowering vine (piper nigrum)  is one of the worldâs most traded spices with Vietnam being the largest producer and exporter, even though pepper is native to Kerala, in southern India. Pepper is a spice that has been used since antiquity, both as a traditional medicine and for use in food. It was so prized in history that it was known as âblack goldâ and is still one of the worldâs most traded spices.Â
]]>Black pepper, the fruit of a flowering vine (piper nigrum) Â is one of the worldâs most traded spices with Vietnam being the largest producer and exporter, even though pepper is native to Kerala, in southern India. Pepper is a spice that has been used since antiquity, both as a traditional medicine and for use in food. It was so prized in history that it was known as âblack goldâ and is still one of the worldâs most traded spices.
It is also one of the main ingredients in my spice blends, especially in my Garam Masalas and in my Chettinad Masala, however, during a visit to Thekkady in Kerala, close to the border with Tamil Nadu I learned so much more.
A chef that I was put into contact with arranged for me to meet with a pepper and cardamom expert from whom he regularly procured spices. He picked me up and after a brief conversation, we set out to see the areas where pepper and cardamom are grown. In Thekkady and surrounding areas, 18 different varieties of pepper are grown and it was an eye opener to see the process from start to finish.
We started by visiting a tribal area, there are two main tribal groups in Thekkady who are producing pepper, the Manan and Paliyan tribes. These tribes live very close to the Periyar National Park in reserved land and outsiders would require special permission to visit. Since our visit was unplanned we could only go to the border area but we could still see the pepper being cultivated.
Pepper is used in so many applications here that it can be seen growing everywhere around town. It is a climbing vine that wraps itself around trees and as a result the pepper farmers plant trees that would be easy for the vines.
The Manan and Paliyan tribes produce pepper known as the Green Tribal and the Black Tribal varieties. The main harvest happens in March and April. From what we have been told, they cannot tell us what sort of pepper is best, it depends on what it is used for, then they can ascertain the best one. For example, for use in the making of chocolate, the preferred pepper is harvested in the month of April as harvest during that time produces the most floral notes.
I was slightly surprised to see that they use limited equipment in the pepper production, harvest is done by hand by using practical tools made of local materials, such as ladders made from bamboo. The pepper vines grow quite high so balance and a steady hand is necessary when harvesting.
Sorting is also done by hard, using screens like these to separate the peppercorns by size.
It was interesting to pluck a peppercorn off the vine and taste it and compare to the dried green variety as well as to the black one from the same plantation. The amount of piperine, which is what gives pepper its characteristic heat varies widely as do the other aromatics, such as limonene and pinene. Black pepper is generally produced by harvesting the green peppercorns, briefly cooking them in hot water and drying them for several days, until the skin shrinks and turns into a hard black layer, after which it is used in food and medicinal preparations.
The tribal pepper produced in this area, also known as Cardamom Hills has relatively small berries but they pack a serious punch. The fresh green peppercorns have a bright fruity taste with a long, lingering heat and low acidity. When dried, the heat can be felt in the mouth for a long time and the aromas could be described as both citrus and earthy. It gave rise to an interesting discussion regarding the âterroirâ of pepper.
We all know that the concept of terroir (how a regionâs soils, climate and terrain affect the taste of a product) applies to wine, but did you know that it also applies to pepper? The location of a pepper farm makes a huge difference to the taste and aroma of the pepper and as a result affects the food you use it in. Iâll provide a few examples here.
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Bottom Left pepper is grown in the Shimoga hillsides in Karnataka state, India. It has a lively and strong heat, slow to develop in the mouth but lingers, it has a distinct floral aroma. It works well in beef, lamb and vegetable preparations. Â Bottom Middle is the Thalasseri (Tellicherry) Reserve #12 Bold. It hails from a small village in the Kerala mountains. It is the most famous black pepper from India with a rich flavour and aroma, good for every day use. This is a Single Estate Pepper. Good for pepper grinders at the table, savoury dishes , breads and even desserts. Bottom Right is a very special pepper, a Periyar Tribal Pepper. It is grown by Manan and Paliyan tribes in the Periyar region (famous for Tiger protection) of Kerala, near Thekkady. It has a hot bite, followed by a clean, fresh taste. What makes this one especially unique is that it is grown from original cuttings of wild pepper vines in the jungle. It adds an incredible flavour to curries, salads and quickly cooked vegetables.
The Top Left variety shown is called Rajakumari, meaning princess. It is a rare pepper from Rajakumari Village in Kerala. It has a unique aroma due to distinctive mountain terrain with small but dense fruit. Perfect pair with game meats, raw fish or quickly cooked vegetable dishes.                                    The Top Middle one is a Green Tribal Pepper, grown by the Manan and Tribal Tribes in the Periyar region of Kerala. It is the same variety as the Periyar Tribal Pepper but harvested and dried without being cooked in hot water like the black variety. The flavour and aromas are fresh, young and with a heat lighter than black pepper. It works well in cream sauces, fish, steaks, vegetarian dishes and even chocolates! The Top Right Pepper variety is called the Kolli Malai Pepper. Only available in small quantities, it is grown in the state of Tamil Nadu, my ancestral state. It has an intense aroma and a heavy heat. Great for people who love hot pepper.
 The main thing that I learned though, is how little knowledge I actually have about pepper and the spice industry as a whole. It left me thirsty for more knowledge.
 Later on that day, I was given a lesson in cooking with pepper. Here is a recipe from that lesson that I would like to share!
Thekkady Pepper Fried Fish
1 kg fish fillets or steaks, skin on
4 sprigs fresh green peppercorns (or 4 tablespoons dried green pepper, soaked in water for about 2 hours and drained)
1 5 cm piece fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder
1 sprig fresh curry leaves
Oil for frying
Grind ingredients (except for fish and oil) to a paste in a strong blender. Add a little water if necessary to facilitate blending.Cut slits in skin of fish. Coat with paste and marinate for 30 minutes.Â
Heat oil in heavy pan, fry fish until cooked through and skin is crispy. Serve with lime wedges.
Enjoy!
]]>A lot to see and learn about spices and how they are used and handled, in particular asafoetida!
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Navigating through the roundabouts and streets or Delhi was like turning ago, arriving many years ago in Old Delhi. There was so much to see that I didnât know where to begin so we decided to take it slowly and see what we come across. There are vendors and shops along the main thoroughfare but some of the more interesting finds are in the alleyways.
One of the realities of this being a continuously working market is the fact that at any given time, a person can come across oxen pulling carts or suddenly need to get out of the way of men carrying heavy loads on their heads or groups of men hauling heavy trolleys. Â
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As we approached the main spice vending area, we came across people selling snack foods on the street. One gentleman had a huge âkarhaiâ or cast iron pot similar to a wok. I can honestly say that I had karhai envy! It was very tempting to stop and have some âchaatâ on the street but we were still full from breakfast. Did you know that the word âchaatâ means âto lickâ? Itâs because the snack foods taste so nice that you want to lick up what is left.
Close to the entrance of the market there were people making and selling a variety of milk products, including paneer, yoghurt, ghee and khoya (milk reduced at low heat until only solids are left).
We were of course attracted to the variety of dried fruits and nuts. Having made a lot of friends of Iranian origin when I was a student in Canada, I knew the appeal of fresh pistachios so I couldnât resist buying a kilo of them. It didnât take long for us to finish them either!
I had a great time going through the spice market, smelling and even tasting some of the nuts and spices. We encountered so many grades and varieties of coriander seeds alone! Â There was a particular melon seed I was looking for and I found it there. Iâm planning to use in some biryani dishes when I get back to Australia (more to come about that in a future post).
By far, one of the most interesting vendors I found was an asafoetida (also known as hing)Â shop in one of the side alleys. I was aware of the fact that asafoetida has a more intense aroma and flavour when used as a solid and that it is a dried gum. When sold commercially it is generally ground and combined with wheat flour or rice flour and often fried before use.
However, I was not aware of just how many varieties and grades of asafoetida that were available and that raw asafoetida (also uncombined with other ingredients) Â could be soft, varied in colour and almost spongy, while at the same time very pungent. It was a very educational day for me at the spice market.
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As we continued our walk through the spice market, so many of the sights brought back memories. We came across some ladies grading and sorting spices and it brought me back to many years ago in Mauritius when rice had to be picked through to remove any impurities such as small stones or insects before it was cooked.
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My next favourite shop was one specialising in pickles or achars. They had a manufacturing area at the back of the shop where they produced and packed the pickles. There were a number of pickle varieties being produced and they were happy to let me sample them, especially the chilli pickles!
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I may not look like it but it was a lot of fun sampling the pickles and those of you who know me well know that I love pickles! No need for lunch after that.Â
We continued our walk through and I loved seeing how many dried chilli varieties were available. I was wishing that I could take some home but I did end up getting a box of yellow chilli powder.Â
Our final stop while browsing the market (and buying pickles as well as several spices, some of the vendors do package for export!) was a jaggery or palm sugar vendor along the street.
There were several different grades and types of jaggery depending on the purity and the type of palm tree it was produced from. Of course I had to sample them all but we werenât able to get any as the vendor didnât have the means to label them properly for export.
I left the market wishing that we had had more time to spend there but it left me with a lot of incentive to go back. On to other things to see in Delhi!
]]>As many of you know, I have decided to finally bring life to my dream of taking groups of people on culinary adventures and decided that South India would be the perfect place for me to start. I thought that the CHG earth hotel group would be a suitable partner for my tours and after discussion with them, I embarked on my reconnaissance visit.
The first of the hotels on my list was Brunton Boatyard. I have no words to describe the experience. From the moment their driver picked me up at Fort Kochi airport we felt welcome and service was with a smile. Every single person at that hotel, including General Manager Manoj Nair, Executive Chef Midhun Cleetus, Â Restaurant Manager, Mr Rajeev, Mr Ronald and Housekeeping Manager, Ms Annie went above and beyond what can be expected of any hotel to make us comfortable, happy and feeling at home. Even now, when I think back to my experience there I canât stop smiling.
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One of the first eco-friendly attractions that caught my attention even before we got past the entrance was the Christmas tree made out of pineapple tops. They had collected the pineapple tops from local markets and constructed a Christmas tree instead of getting a plastic one or cutting down an existing tree.
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We really loved our room as well. The red floors took me back in time to when I was a child in Mauritius, where many of the houses had red floors that they would regularly wax and brush with dried coconut heads to keep them shiny. One item that was completely unexpected but very welcome was the fruit basket in the room. At no point during my stay in India at this time of year did I think I would encounter fresh, local mangoes but at Brunton Boatyard, there was one in my room! They had managed to find a grower that had a few that grew even though the season was over! I also loved the small chest of drawers filled with chocolates and biscuits as well as the loose leaf tea, complete with a menu describing the teas and areas of origin.
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And oh, the food. Not only did the staff go out of their way to explain the food to me and get extra bits and pieces when we were interested, the chefs shared the details with me as in how the ideas for particular dishes came about. One of the restaurants, called Armoury, had some absolutely beautiful Thalis, the only regret that I had there was that I didnât have enough days to try them all.
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The menu at History restaurant was especially appealing to me as it represented the different cultures that comprised the history of Kerala as a whole, from the Jews to the Portuguese to the Dutch, the local people to the Eurasians. There was a lot of history to learn from the foods themselves as well as the story behind each dish. Chef Raj suggested that I try the Vypeen Crab Soup and it was a winner, I think I had it three times during my visit. The creativity and ingenuity behind their sourcing of local ingredients, supporting local growers and producers is something that I have long supported and I was so happy to see likemindedness in a larger company
The local seafood in Kochi is abundant and stunning in quality. Brunton Boatyard hosts daily cooking demonstrations using local produce, usually conducted by Chef A. M. Sunny. He did a great job of explaining the techniques and spices used. I honestly loved his fish curry, it was so well prepared. When he asked me for feedback on his work, the only thing I could tell him was that he was doing a great job and to keep moving forward and learning as much as possible. His youthful enthusiasm was contagious and it was lovely to see a young chef so happy in his job..
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Since we were staying there throughout Christmas, we had the opportunity to try Chef Midhunâs Christmas Menu. It was put together with so much thought and consideration. I can only imagine how much work and planning went into it. One of the palate cleansers was called Amla Sorbet 41. I knew that Amla is an Indian gooseberry but from the taste, I knew that there was much more to the sorbet than that and I had no idea what the 41 stood for so I decided to ask him. To my surprise, he told me that he sourced the gooseberries at the beginning of the season and fermented them with herbs for 41 days. That explained the umami taste and herbaceous aroma! I was blown away by their creativity as well as their willingness to share their knowledge and ideas. It was a wonderful way to spend Christmas, usually not something I enjoy but this time I loved it.
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Brunton Boatyard has other activities like yoga and a daily sunset cruise. We loved the sunset cruise and on one day, happened to be the only ones taking up the opportunity so it was a lot of fun to have the entire boat to ourselves. Instead of cancelling the cruise due to low numbers, instead they gave us a personalised experience.
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The General Manager, Mr Manoj Nair and Mr Rajeev were also very helpful, far more than could be expected of any hotel. I asked them whether they knew where to go shopping for some supplies that I was hoping to find for my business back in Australia and they immediately got me a driver and connected me with the business that supplies their hotel chain and told me who to ask for when I got there. I found everything I needed and more.
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Overall, my experience at Brunton Boatyard was superior to anything I could have expected and no, I was not paid to write positively about them. The icing on the cake was when I had already shifted to another CGH property and was told that there was a delivery for me from Brunton Boatyard. I went to see and it was some fruit called Nungkku in Tamil Nadu. I had seen some on the side of one of the streets and had asked the staff whether they knew where was a good place to get some and they unexpectedly and unknown to me went and got it.
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It goes without saying that Brunton Boatyard will be the hotel that my guests will be staying in when we come to the start of our journey in Kerala! We loved the place, staff and food so much that even when staying at the other property (which was also good) we had to come back to one more dinner. We arrived at the hotel, expecting to make some choices from the menu. Chef Midhun heard that we were there and after a short conversation and look through the menu, he suggested that he and Chef Anish create a menu for us with the assistance of Mr Rajeev. We we excited and intrigued and of course agreed. Once again, the food was mind blowing and expectations were exceeded. We left Brunton Boatyard talking about coming back within a few months.
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 Canât wait to be back later on this year!
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However, Tsetanâs son told us that there was quite a bit of snow in Dharamkot, which we could reach by combining walking and a short car ride, so we opted for that instead of a seven hour car journey to Shimla as we had spent enough time in cars on our 12 hour drive through the mountains from Delhi!
It was a somewhat tough walk for me but we enjoyed petting the local dogs and cows as well as the scenery as we walked up the mountain. We approached the bulls with a little trepidation but as it turned out, they were friendly.Â
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I found it interesting to be back in the mountain snow, in a way, with the snow and the smell of pine trees, it was reminiscent of being in Western Canada and in Washington State, however, it had a character that was very much its own, especially with the little tea shop and Shiva temple at the top. It was an absolutely beautiful place to rest  with a cup of masala tea and enjoy the view. As someone who doesnât really like cold weather, I can honestly say that it was well worth the slippery walk up.Â
It was my daughterâs first time in the snow that she could remember (she had experienced snow when we lived in Washington State but she was only a year old) and she seemed to relish the experience, including making snowballs and throwing them at me.
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Our descent was equally impressive and breathtaking as we took a different trail back down the other side of the mountain providing us with views of different valleys. The side of the mountain we experienced on the way down was the shadier side and as a result the snow lasted longer.Â
Needless to say the exercise from walking up the mountain in the snow made us ravenous so we were happy to sit down to a big bowl or warming Tibetan soup. Perfect end to a exhilarating day!Â
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We started the days with some delicious local millet pancakes served with tomato chutney. I asked the chef what made them so delicious and he said that they were made with a local variety of millet that was freshly ground into flour before making the pancakes. Yummy!
Our plan was to take a walk up the mountain to the Tibetan Childrenâs Village where one of Tsetanâs relatives was a teacher and he had invited us to visit the school. Along the way, I decided to stop to buy a few of the beautiful Himachali shawls and pashminas.
It was a beautiful and peaceful walk, even as we were walking through the town the spirituality and peaceful nature of the people and place was palpable. There were several large prayer wheels to visit as well.Â
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As we approached the top part of town, the smell of freshly fried samosas started calling my name and I wasnât able to resist stopping at one of the roadside cafĂ©s for a samosa with channa dal curry. It was delicious and of course, service was with a smile.Â
Continuing our walk, there were stunning Himalayan views and street vendors selling walnuts and dried apricots.Â
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I especially enjoyed walking under the Tibetan prayer flags.Â
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We received a warm welcome at the Tibetan Childrenâs Village and greatly enjoyed learning about the school and interacting with the children. It was a lot of fun to see them building a snowman!
We then slowly made our way back to the main town with a stop at The Church of St John in the Wilderness. Built in 1852 it was dedicated to John the Baptist. The attached graveyard had interesting gravestones saying how people had died, including being killed by bears!
Dinner that evening was a very interesting Himachali Thali, consisting of Madhra - Chickpeas in a yoghurt sauce, Karhi - gram flour and vegetables cooked in yoghurt, Â cumin potatoes, carrot salad, yoghurt, makandwari - semolina cubes in spinach sauce and green beans with mustard seeds and peanuts. Perfect end to a great day!Â
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]]>After we had some food and a little rest, he made Gita a very happy girl by pulling a Pomeranian puppy out of his jacket! She was excited to hear that there are a lot of dogs in the vicinity and that it was ok to pet them as they are very friendly Â
After a few hours of rest, he came to pick us up and we started out walk through the freezing rain and sleet to the Dalai Lama Monastery. It was quite a slippery uphill climb and for someone who hasnât been around snowy conditions at all for about thirteen years, it was a challenge. We finally made it there and indeed it was worth the walk.
 The atmosphere and energy at the Dalai Lama Temple was peaceful and serene, just what we needed after a long and arduous journey from Brisbane. Much of what I saw there reminded me of my trip to Bhutan and visits to the monasteries there. The prayer wheels and chanting carried with it a strong sense of peace and serenity. Even the monkeys in the courtyard were not aggressive and seemed to be peaceful and happy.
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I think one of my favourite aspects was lighting the lamps, it reminded me of my visit to Bhutan where I did a similar ritual in a Buddhist monastery and also reminded me of some ceremonies in Mauritius. The atmosphere was very calm, Â healing and restorative.
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We spent a couple of hours at the temple, it was a very enjoyable, and educational experience and one thing that I can definitely say is that the photos do not do it justice.
Attached to the temple is a museum dedicated to the struggle faced by the Tibetan people, including those who had crossed over into India. Even though I have had quite a bit of exposure to Tibetan people outside of Tibet and had heard stories from Tsetanâs family and several others, it was eye opening and confronting. It is said that a photo is worth a thousand words and that was definitely the case.Â
I opted not to take photos of the more confronting exhibits as I felt that it would have been disrespectful to those involved.Â
I felt deeply grateful to the government of India for allowing the Tibetan refugees to live there, after all, had they not, I never would have met Tsetan or her family.
We ended the evening with some delicious and warming Tibetan food, a perfect end to an intense couple of days!
In the next blog post, I will talk about other aspects of our visit to Dharamshala and the Kangra valley, including some delicious Himachali food!
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]]>Long story short, tickets were purchased and visas issued and we embarked on an adventure. Tsetanâs family came to the airport to see us off, it felt like when we leave Mauritius where relatives come to the airport Â
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The first part of the journey was tiring but uneventful  We took Singapore Airlines flight to Singapore, then to Delhi. Upon arrival in Delhi we collected our luggage, cleared customs and immigration and proceeded to check in for our domestic flight to Dharamshala.
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We checked in for our domestic flight and then had some food and walked around a little. We had several hours to wait so we looked at the shops and chatted with some Tibetan monks that we found in the airport, in particular, a very interesting lama based in Sikkim, a place that I have always wanted to visit.
About an hour before the flight was scheduled to depart we headed to the gate only to see that the flight was no longer listed! Nobody around seemed to know what was happening until I found a couple of Indian guys who were looking for the same flight. A few others gradually joined us, including a lady from Uttar Pradesh and one from Vienna. After confirming the flight was cancelled due to bad weather in Dharamshala we quickly made our way through the airport back to arrivals to collect our luggage. We then went back to the ticket counter, snaking our way through the Delhi airport. At the ticket counter, one of the Indian gentlemen, Saransh had a vibrant discussion with them to negotiate our refunds.
After all of this happened we decided it was time to introduce ourselves to each other  We actually sorted out the issues together without knowing anything about each other, including names!
At the same time, another one of the Indian gentlemen was at another Air India counter negotiating for the refund of the excess baggage that several of us had paid. It was quite stressful and confusing since none of us knew where to go or what to do but they were like a breath of fresh air and were incredibly helpful in sorting things out.
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The next step was to figure out how to get to Dharamshala! We were all hungry and tired and needed to get there as soon as we could. There were several options that we discussed. One was to stay overnight in Delhi and plan to take the 6 am flight to Dharamshala, assuming that it wouldnât be cancelled. The weather forecast was grim so we opted against that.
After weighing up a lot of possibilities, including flying to Amritsar and finding a driver, we opted to get a couple of drivers and make the 12 hour overnight drive to Dharamshala, in the dark, through the mountains while raining. We were told that night driving was a lot easier in those areas.
The Indian gentlemen made a few attempts to find taxi drivers at the airport and when that was unsuccessful one of them made a few phone calls and found us 2 drivers. It took them a little while to get there due to Delhi traffic conditions and then they loaded up all of the luggage and we started driving.Â
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After a 12 hour drive through the mountain passes and winding roads with a brief stop for some food we finally made it to Dharamshala, where Tsetanâs son was waiting for us. We will always be grateful to the people who helped us along the way. With their help and companionship, an ordeal was turned into a fun adventure.
This was a reminder to me that when travelling in India, always expect the unexpected and stay open minded and ready to go with the flow. There will always be someone to help and the unexpected will turn into an adventure!
More to come on our visit to Dharamshala!
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]]>When making a good biryani, basmati rice is transformed into a rich and delectable dish, almost a food for the gods. Â The rice absorbs the flavours of the other ingredients, which include saffron, cumin, mint, cinnamon and cloves among many others.
Biryani is a dish that originated in India and from my research I came to the conclusion that the Mauritian Biryani has its roots in Hyderabad, India, where many types of Biryani can be found. A large percentage of Mauritian people have Indian ancestry so it is not surprising that Biryani made its way to Mauritius.Â
 I have tried several delicious biryanis in Mauritius and one of my aunts makes some of the best ones I have ever tried. One time when I was visiting Mauritius with my husband and daughter she made 5 varieties in one day! Knowing how much effort goes into making the dish, I was really touched by her gesture.  Another good one is made by a neighbour called Ayesha. She learned to make the dish from her mother and graciously agreed to teach me when I asked her.
It is a very time consuming dish as onions, potatoes and hard boiled eggs all have to be fried separately and rice par boiled to two stages before the dish is assembled. It also uses costly ingredients like saffron but I assure you that it is worthwhile. I have prepared the dish several times for Mauritian clients here in Brisbane and they have all been very happy with it.
I only realised what a treasure that her lesson and recipe was a couple of years later on here in Brisbane. A Malaysian friend had her father visiting here and as was the custom,  I invited the family for dinner.. I had a bit of trouble deciding what to make and finally decided to put in the effort to make the biryani.
The biryani turned out perfectly! I hesitantly served it to my friendâs father and after polishing off his plate he told me that he hadnât tasted a biryani like that in 50 years. He told me that when he was a young boy back in Malaysia, some street food vendors from Hyderabad used to prepare a biryani with that exact flavour and that he hadnât had that flavour in decades! Thatâs when I knew I was on to a winner and decided to get a proper biryani pot the next time I went to Mauritius. The pot is called a deg and is in the shape of an inverted cone and has a heavy copper bottom to conduct the heat properly.Â
It gives me a sense of pride and great pleasure to share this recipe with you. I have taken the liberty to add the step of lining the pot with sliced potatoes to prevent anything on the bottom from sticking to the pan. Donât give in to the temptation to skip steps as they are all essential to the dish. Here in Brisbane, I use an Aged Basmati Rice, India Gate Brand as it produces the best results.
Here is the recipe, I hope you enjoy it! Please feel free to share with your family and friends.
Ingredients (serves 12)
1 kg potatoes, cut in large pieces
1.5 kg basmati rice, preferably aged
2 kg lamb, cut in large cubes
1 kg onions
100g ginger, crushed
100g garlic, crushed
1 small bunch coriander
4 green chillies
1 bunch mint leaves
3 cinnamon sticks
8-10 cardamom pods, bruised
3 cloves
3 -4 tablespoons cumin powder
2-3 cups plain yoghurt
12 hard boiled eggs
Salt to taste
Fresh mint or coriander leaves for garnish
1 pinch saffron strands, soaked in about 1 teaspoon warm water
Oil for frying
Rinse rice several times and allow to sit in water for at least two hours prior to cooking.
Boil rice with salt, a little cumin, 1 cinnamon stick and 2 cardamom pods for about two minutes. Remove about 1/3 of it after about one and a half minutes of cooking. Drain and set rice aside separately.
Blend about 1/3 of the onions with the ginger and garlic, slice the rest of the onions and fry until brown.
Chop mint and coriander separately and slit chillies.
Peel potatoes and cut into large pieces, fry until golden. Peel and fry eggs as well.
Combine lamb cubes with yoghurt, salt, blended onion mixture, the remaining whole spices, about half of the fried onions, coriander and mint. Stir well and add potatoes, making sure potatoes get covered by the spice mixture. Add about two tablespoons of oil.
Place lamb mixture in a large pot, smoothing it out on the top. (Some people like to line the bottom of the pot with thin slices of potato to ensure that the meat doesnât burn).
Spread the lesser cooked portion of rice on top of the meat, trying to ensure that the top is as flat as possible. Sprinkle with half of the remaining fried onions and add the fried eggs on top. Now add the remaining rice, top with remaining fried onions and sprinkle the top with saffron strands and saffron water.
Cover tightly and cook over medium-low heat for 60-90 minutes. After about an hour, forge with a spoon into the bottom of the biryani to see whether the recipe is cooked.Â
Many of you, especially those living in Brisbane have tried my signature fish curry. It is a dish very close to my heart and has a very interesting history.Â
This dish originates in the far south of India and as a result of  the colonial era migration can often be seen in countries with a significant Indian population like Mauritius, Malaysia and Singapore. During my travels to southern India, Malaysia and Singapore, and visits to Malaysian and Singaporean friends here in Brisbane, I have noticed that the fish curries are remarkably similar and I relish them all! I love the sourness from the tamarind as well as the spices Â
]]>Many of you, especially those living in Brisbane have tried my signature fish curry. It is a dish very close to my heart and has a very interesting history.Â
This dish originates in the far south of India and as a result of  the colonial era migration it can often be seen in countries with a significant Indian population like Mauritius, Malaysia and Singapore. During my travels to southern India, Malaysia and Singapore, and visits to Malaysian and Singaporean friends here in Brisbane, I have noticed that the fish curries are remarkably similar and I relish them all! I love the sourness from the tamarind as well as the spices Â
My favourite time of year to make it in Brisbane is late spring when I can easily get green mangoes from local farmers. There are several lovely farmers who live very close to me and are happy to accommodate when I ring them looking for green mangoes. Slices of green mango make an incredible addition to the dish. If they are out of season or not available fresh where you live they are often available frozen from Indian grocers.
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FIsh curry is one of my favourite dishes to eat when I return to Mauritius (especially since others make it for me). One of my aunts is 85 years old and an excellent cook. Despite her age, she is still constantly cooking and never fails to have my fish curry and parathas ready when I arrive in Mauritius. She was kind enough to teach me how to make it from start to finish and I often make it here for customers.Â
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I especially love making this dish for a friendâs mother. Her name is Dulcie, she is also 85 years old and from Singapore. She is one of the nicest and most interesting ladies that I know and I have been privileged to spend time with her. Â When I make this dish for her, her eyes light up and she tells me how the taste takes her back many years to when her own mother used to prepare it for her. If someone that age (who is a great cook herself) says that, it must be good! Interestingly, her daughter and son-in-law made the video for Raniâs Mauritian Fish Curry on my YouTube Channel. You can view the video here Â
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yIBZBZkjyw&t=76s
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I am including the recipe here. If you have access to a clay pot, known as a âchattiâ in South India, please use it as it greatly adds to the flavour  I hope you enjoy making this dish as much as I enjoy sharing it with you. Remember to allow the mustard seeds to pop! If green mangoes are not in season, substitute lightly friend pieces of eggplant. Enjoy!
 Raniâs Mauritian Fish Curry
Cooking Time 60 minutes, makes 6 servings
500g fish, cut into slices
1 golden shallot, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon garlic paste
1 tomato, sliced
10-12 fresh curry leaves
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon urid dal
50g fish curry powder or Mauritian curry powder
1 green chilli, sliced, optional
200 ml coconut milk or coconut cream
1 golf ball size piece or tamarind pulp
2 green mangoes
Salt and Pepper to taste
Coriander leaves for garnish
1 tablespoon vegetable oil.Â
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Lightly pan fry fish, if desired, there is really no need. Add tamarind pulp to 250 ml hot water, allow it to stand for about 20 minutes, then massage and squeeze to extract juice. Strain and discard seeds. Combine curry powder, tamarind water and coconut cream in a bowl.Â
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Prepare green mangoes by washing well to remove sap and then cutting into slices. If mangoes are quite young, the knife will cut right through the seed. Remove seed and discard.Â
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Heat oil in pan, when hot, add the mustard seeds. When mustard seeds pop, decrease heat to medium low, add fenugreek seeds, urid dal and curry leaves. Stir well. Add shallots, stir until translucent, add garlic and stir well.Â
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Add curry powder mixture and give it a good stir. Bring to a simmer, add tomatoes, fish pieces and mango slices. Simmer until fish is cooked through, about 10 to 15 minutes depending on the fish. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with rice or parathas. Raniâs Mauritian Fish Curry is ready to serve!
]]>Anne Bolland
]]>I would recommend this to anyone looking for an authentic and fun cooking class experience, and with a group of friends, a novel way to enjoy a dinner party afterwards. Â I can't believe anything this fantastic came out of my kitchen!â
Dotti Opray
Yoga Teacher, Milton State School Mum
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